From the SPG Fashion desk

Dear Peggy,

I have a job interview coming up for a professional job in a large bureaucracy. I have no idea what to wear. I know I need to buy some new clothes, but what? and where? I am a  younger woman on the butch end of the fashion continuum. I am good at t-shirts, jeans and hoodies. More formal than that and I get confused. Please help!
Confused in Oregon

Dear Confused,

Panic not, I have confidence that with a bit of guidance, you can understand and execute this mission.

First some general rules about job interview fashion.  You need to do your homework. At the interview you want to look like you fit in with the organization.
Most workplaces tolerate a reasonable range of styles. You want to know what that range is. You want to aim for the upper middle end of that range.  You really want them to notice you, not your clothes. So you want to be comfortable and have them be immediately comfortable with you. Visit the workplace if possible, talk to someone who works there if you can.

Next: Some do's and don'ts

Do be yourself - within reason.  There are almost no jobs in the Pacific Northwest that require a woman to wear a skirt. If you never wear them anywhere else, you don't have to wear one now.  If you never wear make-up, don't put any on now, you will just be uncomfortable and that will show. But you do need to look professional.

Do find someone who cuts hair well. Get a haircut about a week before the interview, unless you have exceptionally unruly hair - then get it done on the day of. Be 'out' to your hairdresser. Ask your hairdresser if you need to tweeze your eyebrows, let them wax them if they will - This simple thing can make you look five years younger.

The fashion challenged should stick with solid colors.

Wear pants that are not denim. Khakis, non-industrial Dockers, natural fabrics, solid dark colors. You can buy pants in the men's departments, but large department stores have multiple sections of women's clothes, most of them have a section of  work clothes for women, they will have racks of pants. If you are slender, you can have pleats, if not, a flat front will look better. Buy the right size, most women wear their pants a size too small or a size too big. If you feel the waistband when you sit down they are too small, if you NEED a belt they are too big. Your pants should just settle on the top of your shoe when standing.

Buy a jacket/sports coat/blazer in a color that is harmonious with your pants color. Navy or tweed over Khaki, black over dark green.  Not too much black - Johnny Cash is not what you are going for.  Darker blue above slightly lighter blue- ok. Never lighter on top unless you are in the tropics ( I know you are not big on pastels).  Buy your coat in the women's department. Men's jackets will not hang right, even if you are small busted.

For the shirt under the jacket, nicer-knit shirts in solid colors,  this is where to add color. Collars optional, you will look smoother without one. Matching  the color of your eyes is almost always a good idea (except bloodshot) A good woven collared shirt is always acceptable. No one looks bad in a crisp, clean, white shirt - one button open.  Again, something that fits - not too tight or baggy. Do not fear the salespeople - they will tell you if you are wearing the right size. Woven shirts tuck, knit shirts do not.

This is your basic professional outfit. Jacket shirt and slacks, leather shoes.

Belts are optional.

Wear dark socks, but if they can be seen,  you pants are not long enough. (Do not cross your legs ankle on knee. Your knees should stay within six inches of each other when sitting)

Lesbians rarely make jewelry mistakes, a watch, a ring and simple earrings if you normally wear them - if you don't, that is fine as well. If you want to soften your look a bit, a simple small pendant or string of pearls will do that.

Some absolute "No - don't even think about it" rules.

Do NOT wear athletic shoes to the interview or the job.  You need to invest in a pair (or two!) of sensible leather shoes or short boots. If they fit right they will be comfortable. You always get what you pay for in shoes. You do not have to wear heels, but you need shoes that can and should be polished - probably in black. West of the Mississippi you can wear cowboy boots if you are so inclined, but dude ranch boots, not clodhoppers. Again - polish.

NO SHIRTS WITH WORDS ON THEM

NOTHING WITH A HOOD

Do NOT wear your keys, phone or any other appliance on your belt. Only batman gets away with this. You are not that cool.

Your watch should not look like it was designed by the US Army Rangers or NASA. 

The part you aren't going to like:

You will have to commit some time to shopping. Shopping and buying are two different things. You will have to go into multiple stores. You might have to talk to sales people. (woefully hard to find at times) You MUST try clothes on. You should plan to spend half a day looking, then buy lunch and make a list and then go back and make purchases. If you can get someone to go with you for moral support, do so. A straight ally with time on her hands is a great resource.

Once you find a source for clothes that work for you, you can become a loyal customer and shop much less.

Finally
Do the best you can with this, and then don't stress about the wardrobe. They will hire you or not based on you, not your threads.

Good luck!
Peg